The 2025 food truck season is nearing an end, and yet I feel like we never truly got started. It’s been a whirlwind of stress, anxiety, excitement, happiness and frustration. Through it all, there have been many lessons learned and adjustments made.

Every time we go out and set up, we experience something different and learn something new. It’s exciting, but it can also be exhausting. Below are some of the key points I’ve learned.

Mobile Pizzeria Challenges

As much as I love that we have a mobile restaurant – I feel that’s a huge selling point, especially once we open to catering weddings and other important events – I find myself often daydreaming about how much easier our life would be if we had a brick-and-mortar restaurant.

With a permanent location, every piece of equipment would have a dedicated spot, everything would be easier to clean and maintain, and we’d be ready for service at any time. The physical demand of unloading and loading equipment just to make some pizzas for a few hours wouldn’t be a thing.

We wouldn’t have to figure out when we can squeeze time into the shared space at our commissary based on the booking calendar. Nor would we have to wait for someone to finish in the dish pit before we could wash our dishes and go home.

Finally: Pulling a trailer is stressful. Backing it up into a tight spot is even worse.

I say all that not to discourage you from opening a mobile pizzeria. I would do it again, without hesitation. But looking back at all of the classes and seminars I attended, not once did someone talk about how physically demanding it is to set up and tear down.

Admittedly, if we had opted for a truck or enclosed trailer, the physical demand would be much lower, but not fully eliminated.

Little Will Go As Planned

Coming into this year, I had a grand vision that we’d open, and like clockwork we’d set up every two weeks (our target cadence) for the entire summer and into the fall, picking up a private or public event here and there. In my mind, it would be smooth sailing. Along with that, I pictured us offering complicated specials with advanced toppings and finishing steps.

Just as we were getting into a rhythm of placing food orders, making dough and setting up, I got injured and we were unable to open for roughly two months. Instead of opening over a dozen times this season, it’s looking like we’ll be lucky if we get eight services in.

I had so many plans that just aren’t going to come to fruition this season.

While I was recovering, I had a lot of time to reset my personal expectations for what this season is going to look like. However, I am frustrated by how far behind my personal goals and schedule we are.

Had we been able to get into a routine, our confidence level about all aspects of running our business would be far ahead of where we’re at now, and we’d be more efficient as well. In our short time of being open, we’ve sped up ticket times and increased the complexity level of our specials, but we’re nowhere near ready for online ordering or booking large catering events. And that’s exactly where I wanted us to be at the end of season one.

I can’t remember which class it was during Pizza Expo 2025, but I remember someone saying that if you’re treating a mobile pizzeria as a hobby, you’re doing it wrong.

I smirked and wrote it off at the time, but I get it now. Setting aside the financial implications of not being consistent, it’s incredibly difficult to refine your workflow and end product if you’re only doing this occasionally.

It takes practice to be great, and we need more practice.

Share Your Knowledge

The morning after our first service, I sat down with my wife and kids and talked it through. Where did we go wrong? What did we do right? Where could we improve?

As they talked about aspects they wanted to change, I started to feel really guilty. Guilty that I didn’t properly prepare them. I had spent the last two years soaking up knowledge from industry experts and YouTube influencers, and I had done my best to share it with them. I didn’t do enough. I let them down.

Since then, I’ve done my best to take their feedback, integrate it into our service and refine it as needed. I’ve also set out to make sure I talk through everything I’m envisioning. I’m not perfect, and we still have a long way to go, but every time we go out, things run more smoothly.

Take Notes

Every time I make dough, prepare a special, or we go out for service, I tell myself I need to sit down and journal or take notes about how it all went. What did I like? What didn’t I like? What do I want to change? I’ve yet to do it, and each time I run into a situation where I could easily have the answer if only I’d taken notes. I kick myself for it.

For example, we had a spinach pizza special ready to go right before I got hurt. We’d spent an afternoon and 12 pizzas going over the recipe, trying different cheeses and figuring out precisely how we wanted to finish it. We were ready to launch it that same week.

Then, the doctor hit me with bad news, and we didn’t do anything pizza-related for weeks. When it came time to actually serve our special, it took my wife and I a few days of discussing the finer details to fully remember exactly what we did. Heck, even as we set up for service, we were still questioning it.

So, I’m including taking notes as some sage advice for you, but also as a reminder for myself. Take notes! Future you will thank present you.

Thank You

There are countless other stories and lessons learned I could have shared here – or in any of the weekly installments we’ve published during this series. I’ve thoroughly enjoyed sharing my experience, and hopefully those insights have helped you – even if just a little bit.

Even more so, I’ve enjoyed talking to everyone who has reached out with kind words, cheered me on or asked for advice. I continue to be amazed at how welcoming this industry is when it comes to sharing knowledge and offering advice.

I want to say thank you to everyone I’ve interacted with along the way. You’ve made a newcomer feel right at home.

Cheers.

JASON CIPRIANI is the owner of Sips & Pies, a mobile wood-fired pizzeria serving Neapolitan-inspired pizza, in Colorado.

The post Launching a Mobile Pizzeria: Lessons Learned (Part 16) appeared first on Pizza Today.

Chris Ostapenko Wins World’s Best Cheese Slice

If you’re like Kevin and think outsmarting Joe Pesci is cool, consider what it would be like to win a $5,000 big check for making the World’s Best Cheese Slice at the 2025 International Pizza Expo. In fact, Chris Ostapenko of Slice on Broadway makes a cheese slice so glorious, the city of Pittsburgh declared May 6, 2025, Slice on Broadway Day in his honor.

Ostapenko tells Pizza Today that he makes about 100 cheese pizzas on Friday nights at the shop, and he followed the same method in this year’s International Pizza Challenge. “The rules were simple: Make the best cheese pizza you can,” he says. “I made the pizza as I do every day in the pizza shop, and the results paid off.”

Chris Ostapenko of Slice on Broadway in Pittsburgh celebrates his World’s Best Cheese Slice Championship win with team mates at International Pizza Challenge at Pizza Expo in Las Vegas. Photo courtesy of Slice on Broadway.

Those looking to follow in Ostapenko’s footsteps should know he’s worked at Slice on Broadway for 15 years. If that doesn’t intimidate you, you might be ready to follow his steps:

• Cold ferment pizza dough for 48 hours
• Use house-made tomato sauce
• Liberally apply a house blend of cheeses

“I think this pizza stood out because of the balance of the flavors that we try to accomplish between the dough, sauce and cheese,” he says of winning over judges and claiming the division trophy.

Following Ostapenko’s win in Las Vegas, the Pittsburgh community showed up to support him by ordering his award-winning cheese pie. “I made more pizza that weekend than I have in a while,” he says. “People were coming to try the World’s Best Cheese Slice!”

World’s Best Cheese Slice History and Rules

The International Pizza Challenge debuted the World’s Best Cheese Slice division at Pizza Expo 2024. Unlike some other divisions, World’s Best Cheese Slice has strict guidelines for competitors:

• No par-baking.
• Must use red tomato sauce.
• Only grated cheese and dry spices are permitted
• Once the pizza is in the oven, no toppings or drizzles can be added aside from olive oil

Contestants select their best three slices, which are presented to judges blind.

Andy Huynh Wins Inaugural Prize

Andy Huynh, Cowabunga+, Hamilton, Ontario, Canada, wins the World’s Best Cheese Slice Division at International Pizza Challenge 2024.

The first year the International Pizza Challenge opened its division devoted to World’s Best Cheese Slice, Andy Huynh brought home the trophy to Cowabunga+ in Hamilton, Ontario. As the owner of Cowabunga+, Huynh uses a sourdough starter and tops his cheese pizzas with marinara sauce, a Canadian mozzarella blend, Fior di Latte and oregano. Of course, only grated cheese is permitted during the competition.

Additionally, Huynh had to travel to Las Vegas with his pizza dough, some of which was packed in luggage lost by the airline, along with other ingredients. This left him without sufficient dough to compete for the coveted Pizza Maker of the Year award, which is open to division champions on the final day of Pizza Expo. Rather than rush the dough that needed to be ready the next day, the pizza maker asked a Cowabunga+ staff member to fly the pizzeria’s signature 72-hour fermented dough down from Canada.

“Luckily for us, we had a lot of support from our suppliers on the floor of the Expo. When we explained what happened, they were happy to give us some sauce and cheese,” Huynh tells Canadian broadcast station The News Forum. The baggage “landed about midnight Wednesday night, and by Thursday at 7 a.m., we were back on the floor competing again.”

Cheese Pizza Recipes

For a Truly elevated cheese pizza (pun intended), consider Chris Decker’s four-part pie featuring burrata cream and fried basil.

If you have a hankering for cheese pizza but are feeling fancy, Scott Wiener has the steps to create a four-cheese pizza Margharita soufleé.

Finally, you can’t go wrong with a classic cheese pizza. Yes, all for you.

The Great American Pizza Challenge

If you think you have what it takes to win a pizza competition, The Great American Pizza Challenge is taking place Oct. 26-27 at the Greater Columbus Convention Center. Information about the categories is available here.

In the meantime, happy National Cheese Pizza Day! May your cheese pulls be long and you always have Gouda luck!

The post National Cheese Pizza Day 2025 Falls on America’s Pizza Night appeared first on Pizza Today.

Detroit has proved to be one of the most popular pizza styles across the U.S. The tender, yet chewy crumb and racing-stripe sauce add to its appeal, but there’s no denying that the real magic is in the crispy cheese crown that towers above the edges of the pizza. It seems only a matter of time before the Frico transcends Detroit pizza altogether and pops up on other styles.

These blackened, lacy edges can be traced back to Buddy’s Pizza, the iconic pizzeria credited with creating what we now call Detroit-style pizza. In 1946, the owners – Gus Guerra and his wife, Anna – were looking for something new to add to their menu. They came up with a variation on Sicilian pizza with a show-stopping cheese crown. The lore behind this style is that Buddy’s used a blue steel pan originally meant to hold small auto manufacturing parts. With an abundance of such trays in Motor City, it was probably a simple matter of convenience and supply. It’s this very pan – deep with thick steel sides – that help create the beautiful cheese crown. Ironically, those blue steel pans so key to the style’s creation are now nearly impossible to find. Luckily, other pans exist to help mimic the originals.

Frico For Non-Detroit Styles

As a person who doesn’t adhere to the exact constructs of specific pizza styles, I love seeing the Frico edge pop up outside of Detroit pizza. I’ve never made Detroit pizza at my shop, but I do put a crispy cheese crust on our Grandma pies. The pizza I make is a variation of the pan pizza my mom used to make. It’s her version of a pan pie, coated with a sesame-seed bottom. When I was workshopping this pizza to make at my restaurant, cheese that pooled over the edge and caramelized in the oven was a natural addition. The sesame seeds turn crunchy and buttery in the oven, and the crispy cheese edge makes the pizza almost decadent. Looking around, I see this feature elsewhere, too – especially on round pan pies. At Chicago-based Milly’s Pizza in the Pan, you can find a cheesy layer lurking along the round crust of what the owner, Robert Maleski, calls a Chicago pan pizza.

It might look easy, but getting the perfect frico crust takes more than just sprinkling some extra cheese on the edge of your pan pie. Like anything extraordinary, it’s all in the details. Creating a consistently great cheese crown really comes down to the cheese, the fat, the pan and the tools.

Cheese Frico

Traditionally, Wisconsin brick cheese was used to create the caramelized edges. This high-fat cheese has a buttery, salty flavor with a good amount of tang. Mozzarella has become a more common addition to the cheese blend. The amount of cheese you use is extremely important. Nicole Bean of Pizaro’s Pizza Napoletana in Houston agrees that finding the right balance of cheeses is essential. She says, “Low-moisture mozzarella is helpful building a frico. There’s debate on which brand – and even if pre-shred makes a difference on it. I think it truly depends on what you’re looking for in your frico.”

The shape of the cheese can impact your final product as well. Shredded cheese is a great option, but also consider using sliced cheese that you layer along the sides – or cut and cubed cheese. This is how Maleski creates his crispy crust at Milly’s. “I use part-skim, low-moisture mozzarella. I think the whole milk releases just a little too much grease and have found that skim works better. I buy them in block form, and we slice them ourselves. We do one-ounce slices. The trick is to layer the slices so they run up the side of the pan.”

While you want a crispy crown, Maleski points out that it’s important not to overcook the pizza, since it can cause the frico to taste bitter and burned.

Pan Pizza

The cheese works in tandem with the pan. The traditional blue steel pans with black surfaces are similar to a cast iron, with the black being better at conducting heat and essentially frying the cheese edge as the pizza cooks. The slightly sloped edges help to create the shelf of caramelized, lacy cheese. While these pans are very hard to come by nowadays, there are some good alternatives.

Once you find the right pan for your frico, don’t forget the fat. A good amount of fat should be used along the bottom and sides of the pan – not only to help with the release of the frico but to help fry it and give it shape and flavor. I’m a big fan of olive oil, but depending on what you’re going for, butter, Crisco or even good old-fashioned grease works really well – or try a combination of a few coatings. Maleski first rubs the entire pan with Crisco and then sprays Pam along the edge of the pan where the frico will touch. He says, “When I first started, it was incredibly challenging to free the pizzas from the pan. Since I discovered the combo of Crisco and Pam, I have never had any issues with the pizza sticking; it comes out like butter.”

Releasing Pizza From the Pan

Once you determine which pan to use and the grease you prefer, the next thing to consider is how to go get it out of the pan. “Choose the right tools to remove your Detroits to preserve the frico as much as possible,” Bean says. “I’ve seen a variety of things: metal dough scrapers or even putty scrapers, beveled spatulas, plastic or metal spatulas, flexi scrapers.”

There’s something about a caramelized cheese frico that is irresistible – both to eat and photograph. While Detroit-style pizza is as popular as ever, the Frico edge itself has taken on a life of its own. Using the right tools, cheese, pans and process, there’s really no limit to putting a frico on your own version of pan pizza.

Audrey Kelly owns Audrey Jane’s Pizza Garage in Boulder, Colorado.

The post Pizza’s Crowning Achievement | Knead to Know appeared first on Pizza Today.

Coming off the high of our successful private preview in October, I was certain we were ready to immediately open. But with winter looming, going through the licensing process and paying all the necessary fees just didn’t make sense. And so, we decided we’d officially open in the spring, a full six months later. So, we continued to learn and ideate while we waited.

I’ll never forget the very first order we took for Sips & Pies – not because it was a milestone I’d dreamt about my entire life, but because of how horribly wrong it went.

Everything started according to plan. We got to an empty lot next to my wife’s office with plenty of time to set up, get the fire roaring and have everything in place for a 4 p.m. opening. Our kids arrived shortly after school let out. The five of us were nervous but excited.

We were ready early, and with a line already forming, I took our first order around 3:45 p.m. My wife began stretching and topping each of the three pizzas. When the first one was ready, I slid it onto the launch peel, walked over to the oven and, as I began to slide it off onto the oven floor, a giant hole appeared. It stuck to the peel. First pizza ruined.

After getting rid of the mess, I turned around and put the second pizza on the peel, double-checked it wasn’t sticking, and went to launch it into the oven, when it happened again. Another giant tear, another ruined pizza.

It was now 4 p.m., we had a line of at least 15 people, already had five orders on the board, and the first two pizzas we sold were ruined. I couldn’t bring myself to turn around and tell my wife we needed to remake another pizza.

What the Heck Am I Doing?

I vividly remember resting my head on the oven’s shelf as my mind filled with self doubt about whether or not we could even do this. What was I thinking? Why did I think I could open a mobile pizzeria? Should I turn around and tell everyone we were just going to close for the day? Maybe I wasn’t cut out for this.

I took a deep breath and reminded myself that feeling frustrated is a sign that you’re learning, and it was time to learn.

I walked over to my wife, let her know we needed another remake, and strategized potential fixes with her.

By this point – probably 4:15-ish – the line was longer than I imagined it being on our opening day, we had a stack of tickets, and we hadn’t even finished the first order yet.

But the five of us regrouped and started to slowly and methodically work through our orders. Our ticket times were far too long, a problem compounded by a giant gust of wind blowing all our tickets off the prep station, mixing them up in the process, but we kept moving.

We must have apologized for the long wait and thanked customers for their patience at least 100 times that day.

By 7 p.m., we’d sold 76 pizzas, had $1,382 in sales and were as exhausted as we were relieved.

Did We Make Any Money?

The next day, after licking my wounds, I sat down and looked more closely at the numbers. I created yet another spreadsheet to track how much money we spent on that service, including supplies, commissary fees, paying our kids and our amortized insurance, and within that silo, we’d made $491 in profit. Not too shabby. (Granted, my wife and I are not paying ourselves yet. We’re investing as much as possible back into the business for now, so our profit percentage is going to be higher than normal.)

As proud as I was of my wife and kids after our private preview, I was even more proud of them after our first service. We got our butts kicked, but we kept working hard together, as a team, and got through it.

We learned a lot that night. I learned a lot. And that’s exactly what I’ll cover next week in the last installment (for now) in this series.

JASON CIPRIANI is the owner of Sips & Pies, a mobile wood-fired pizzeria serving Neapolitan-inspired pizza, in Colorado.

The post Launching a Mobile Pizzeria: Grand Opening (Part 15) appeared first on Pizza Today.

Sourdough isn’t for everyone. Making it, eating it, maintaining it. There are plenty of preferments that can add great complexity, flavor and texture to your dough – and extend its shelf life. I’ve made dough with most of these, but once I started experimenting with sourdough, there was no turning back. The difference is that while other preferments (such as a biga or poolish) are created by combining commercial yeast with flour and water, sourdough is a natural yeast.

Since sourdough is a living thing, there are a lot of factors that can alter how your dough turns out. Everyone’s starter will be a little different – even if you use the exact same flour and water. This is because sourdough feeds off the natural bacteria in the air and the sugar in the flour to create wild yeast. Just like all dough making, time and temperature are important considerations.

Before you try to make dough with sourdough, learning how to create and maintain your sourdough starter is essential. How well you do this will directly affect the quality and outcome of your dough. This means what you feed it, how often you feed it and the environment where it lives all contribute to its flavor and the activity of the yeast. All of this might sound intimidating for those beginning their journey with sourdough, but starters are incredibly resilient.

Broken down, a sourdough starter (also called a natural leaven, leaven or starter) is simply a mix of flour and water that hosts a stable blend of beneficial bacteria and wild yeast. All you need to make your own is flour, water and time – all things you already have in your shop! Maintaining a healthy starter requires regular feedings. A feeding is when you take out the majority of old starter and replenish it with fresh flour and water. I like to feed mine twice a day with equal parts flour and water. Your starter will stay healthier and more consistent the more often you feed it.

Since you only add two ingredients to a starter, the quality of each is important. If you live in an area that does not have drinkable tap water – or you’re in a city that uses chloramine or chlorine to clean the water – you might want to use bottled or filtered water in your starter. The flour you use also will impact the taste of your starter and pizza dough as well as the fermentation process. Using a flour that is higher in nutrients and sugars, such as whole-grain flour, will expedite the fermentation process. A white flour will form a stronger gluten net and has increased gas-trapping ability. By combining the two flours, you can get the best of both. Also: Make sure there aren’t any additives in your flour; they can kill the wild yeast and create mold.

One of the many great things about sourdough starters is that they are hard to ruin. If you forget to feed your starter for a day or even two, they almost always pop back to life once you refresh them. If you’re not a daily baker, you can put your starter in your fridge or even dry it out, then refresh it the day before you plan on making bread or pizza dough. The flavor, texture and digestibility that sourdough starters provide make the extra effort more than worth it.

It takes five to nine days to make your starter. As soon as you feed it, the yeast and bacteria in your culture will begin to metabolize the sugars in the flour, creating carbon dioxide gasses as a byproduct. These gasses cause the starter to rise throughout the day. Once they’ve eaten all the fresh food, the lactic and acetic acid begin to break down the gluten, causing the starter to fall and create a sour or vinegary smell. This is why I like to use my starter right before it peaks, when lots of gas is being produced and the fermentation activity is strong. It gives the final product a fresh, almost floral taste as opposed to a more acidic, sour flavor. Since the yeast is beginning to die when the starter falls, using it after its peak creates a very dense and flat crust that won’t brown in the oven.

The Sourdough Starter Guide (see table below) is a recipe to help get you started. Once you have an active starter and are regularly feeding it, the quality of your dough will become consistent. Keep in mind that the amount of fresh flour and water you feed your starter before making dough will depend on the quantity you need for your recipe. For example, if you are making a batch of dough with a 50-pound bag of flour and are using 8 percent starter, you would need 4 pounds of starter. To create this, you would feed your starter with
2 pounds of flour and 2 pounds of water.

I like to create starter out of freshly milled, whole-grain flour since it is rich in nutrients, bacteria and yeast. You will be able to see signs of activity much more quickly than if you use white flour alone. The temperature of the room and water you use also will affect the fermentation. Yeast proliferates more quickly in a warm environment than a cold one.

Audrey Kelly owns Audrey Jane’s Pizza Garage in Boulder, Colorado.

Read the August 2025 Issue of Pizza Today Magazine

In this issue, we announce Pizza Today’s 2025 Pizzeria of the Year. Find out how the owners turned a failing pizzeria purchase into a fast-growing pizza business. Learn how to make a sourdough starter. It’s Green Season! Green Chile, that is. Explore menu ideas that add New Mexican flavors to your pizza. Find out which strip mall locations work best for pizzerias – and how to maximize traffic. Discover why pizzerias are going with custom mobile apps to capture sales and return visits. Tap into addictive bar menu options to increase check averages. Go to the August Issue.

The post How to Make a Sourdough Starter | Knead to Know appeared first on Pizza Today.

As pizza makers and bakers, we are trained to choose our flour based on what we want our end product to look, feel and taste like. We analyze a bag of flour for the level of protein it contains, how coarsely it is milled, the elasticity it will provide and if it is bleached, unbleached or enriched. Another important question should be what wheat is used. Just as baking has been returning to its artisanal roots, pizza makers are exploring beyond standard “white flour” as whole grains and ancient grains enter the conversation.

Like all plants, wheat will taste different depending on the varietal as well as the region and soil it is grown in. All these factors influence the complexity and flavor of the grain once it is milled. The quality and type of grains have a huge impact on the flavor, texture, color, crumb and nutritional value of the pizza, breads and pastries that we create from them.

Using Whole Grains and Local Mills for my Restaurant

One of my favorite parts of owning a pizzeria is making and experimenting with dough. When I started adding in whole-grain flours, I realized how much I had been missing out. I knew the basics about wheat and flour, but once I started diving deeper, I couldn’t stop. I wanted to know about all the different wheat varietals, why freshly milled flour is so different from mainstream commercial flour, how whole grains can kickstart the fermentation process and the multitudes of flavor and texture they add to pizza dough. Naturally, I started milling flour to add to our dough in my shop with a small mill I bought. This was clearly not sustainable since we don’t have a big enough mill – nor the space for it – to accommodate the amount of dough we make daily. Luckily for me, there are a few fantastic local mills in my area.

Not only was I able to access great grains to mill (and eventually just buy flour from them), I had the opportunity to learn about the different ones available, what would work best in our dough and the different flavor qualities each one contributed. A lot of states also have created grain alliances, which can be a fantastic resource if you don’t happen to have a mill near you. Here in Colorado, the Colorado Grain Chain was started a handful of years ago, and it offers educational classes and resources to members.

Before I settled on a dough I really loved, I tried out some that were almost entirely composed of whole-grain flours and others with varying percentages of whole grains. Some were great and others not so much. There’s a fine line between adding flavor and texture and turning it into a whole-wheat dough. For my shop, we try to make two different doughs, max. This helps with a multitude of things, including labor and space. In order to add freshly milled, local whole grains to our dough and not have it be a completely separate item, I had to scale way back on both the whole-grain flour and my expectations. I found that the sweet spot is closer to five percent whole grains, but you can always push it a little further if you want a heartier dough.

Wheat and Milling Types

You might be asking, “Where do I even begin to choose what whole-grain flour to use?”

In the U.S., there are six classes of wheat:

• Hard Winter Red

• Hard Red Spring

• Soft Red Winter

• Soft White

• Hard White

• Durum

The protein content of the wheat primarily determines how the wheat will be used. The greater the protein content, the greater the elasticity of the dough. Most of the flour produced domestically is made of hard or soft red wheat. As you can see, all flour begins as whole grains. However, to be classified as “whole wheat” or “whole grain,” the flour must contain all three parts of the grain kernel – the bran, endosperm and germ. The way most commercial flour is milled and processed almost always takes out the wheat’s nutrients by separating the endosperm from the bran and germ.

The most common way to mill grains these days is roller-milling. Most commercial flour companies use this method because it is quick, efficient and produces lots of flour in a short amount of time. The process involves feeding grain through a series of rollers to separate the endosperm – or the part of the grain made up of mostly carbohydrates – from the rest of the kernel. This produces a very fine, white flour. The bran and the germ, which contain most of the grain’s nutrients, are removed in this process, leaving behind an extremely palatable flour with fewer nutrients. Stone-milled flour involves slowly grinding grain between two large stones. This ancient method preserves more of the grain and the nutrients. Flour can then be sifted to achieve varying degrees of coarseness.

While not everyone lives in an area where it is easy to access local, freshly milled wheat, plenty of great flours can be sourced from smaller mills across the country – and even from larger companies. Most are more than willing to answer any questions you have and even send samples for you to experiment with. Some boutique flour companies only carry single-origin flours, whereas others have whole-grain flour blends created for specific baked goods. There are tons of ancient and heirloom grains. If you’re considering them for your pizza dough, I like to look for grains that have pretty high protein content, contribute a unique (but not overpowering) flavor and can be sourced year-round.

Wheat Varieties to Consider for Pizza Dough

Here are a few varietals to get you going:

Clarks Cream Wheat

This Hard White Winter wheat is a great one to dip your toes in. With its subtle color, it’ll blend right in with the rest of your flour while still adding a great texture – and, you guessed it, creamy taste.

Turkey Red 

A personal favorite of mine and many bread bakers, this wheat has high protein content. This is great for higher gluten pizzas, such as New York style, and adds great flavor.

Red Fife

This heirloom varietal adds a rich, nutty flavor and deeper caramel color to your dough.

Yecora Rojo

This wheat has high protein content, is more complex than a lot of other grains and adds a chewy texture to your pizza or bread.

Another great way to incorporate whole grains into your dough is by adding them to your sourdough starter, biga or poolish. Since whole grains naturally have higher sugar content, they will kickstart the fermentation process. Keep in mind that your hydration also will change, since whole-grain flours absorb a lot more liquid.

As you can see, you don’t need to completely overhaul your dough to benefit from the complexity whole-grain flours add to taste, texture and fermentation. Just remember that a little can go a long way. To me, it’s worth the extra effort. After all, you can make your toppings as fancy as you want but, in the end, a pizza is only as good as the crust.

AUDREY KELLY owns Audrey Jane’s Pizza Garage in Boulder, Colorado.

Read the July 2025 Issue of Pizza Today Magazine

Who are this year’s Rising Stars in the Pizza Industry? We profile six up-and-comers who are making their mark on pizza. Discover why the Grandma style pizza is spreading across the country. See why your pizza could benefit from whole-grain flour. Brush up on inventory management best practices. Learn how to take your products to the retail market. Go to the July Issue.

The post Your pizza dough might benefit from adding whole-grain flour | Knead to Know appeared first on Pizza Today.

Breaking and Entering

For centuries, artisan bakers have been adding flavors to their dough to give customers a delightful, textural crunch and flavor excitement. From salty olives that the ancient Etruscans mixed into their wet dough to the spicy sweetness of brushing green chili jam on a hot crust today, experimenting with new ingredients pushes the boundaries of taste.

These items can meld with different flours, dough hydrations and pizza toppings to define your personal approach. Even though bakers have been infusing breads for centuries, pizza crusts have remained relatively untouched – probably because our dough has a lower height and thinner profile, and pizzas already are topped with a variety of flavors. What if this coin was flipped, and the flavor profile of each pizza was a combination of base and toppings?

X-Men

Integrating solid items into pizza dough may be a giant leap for most pizza makers, but if you start by dipping your sesame-coated toe into this vat of creativity, you may get hooked. If you are delving into solid-flavored crusts for the first time, you should ask yourself: Are all my taste sensations activated so I want to go back for a second bite or a second slice?

The flavor factor depends on taste, touch (mouthfeel), aroma and what some call the “X” factor. This last factor is an amalgamation of all the above, creating a sense of place and time. Flavor depends on what is perceived by the mouth, nose and eyes. Sweetness, saltiness, sourness, bitterness and umami are all mouth activations. Texture, piquancy (hotness) and astringency (the “pucker effect”) are residual mouth sensations. Because we are working with cooked and crispy wheat products, texture is usually the No. 1 sensory factor when creating pizza crusts.

Planting Evidence

Mixing flavors into dough can be a complicated affair if these items are too large, sharp, flaccid or leach components that inhibit yeast growth. Any sharp item can puncture the waxy alveoli in the dough’s cell structure as it rises. Items too long and flaccid will inhibit the formation, balling and cutting of the dough ball, and items that are too fatty can burn on the oven bricks.

Here are some items that can be fun to integrate into your pizza dough:

• Herbs.

This is a sure-fire way to integrate flavor into dough. Rosemary, cilantro, parsley, basil, tarragon, chervil and arugula integrate well with fatty meat toppings and cheeses. Be sure to chop items such as rosemary, which can be too strong. Herbs are great partners to onions and garlic. Fatty cheeses also complement the strong herbaceous notes.

• Pork Products.

Bacon, soppressata, salami and other fatty charcuterie can be cooked and chopped into small slices before it is kneaded into the dough. Just be sure to partially bake bacon and soak up the fat with paper towels before incorporating pieces into the dough. A thin chiffonade cut with Prosciutto di Parma shank and end cuts of salami will save you money and add major flavor to pizza crust.

• Spices.

Wow. That’s usually the reaction when a person bites into a Za’atar covered crust or a green peppercorn-infused crust. We’ve come a long way from pepper-flake-added pizza dough. Now, many inventive pizza makers are experimenting with ghost pepper, fennel pollen, spicebush berries, Szechuan peppercorns, cardamom, caraway, coriander and even Chinese seven-spice dough.

• Seeds and Nuts.

Both offer a wonderful expansion of textural enjoyment in pizza dough. The rule that “smaller is better” comes to the fore here. Walnuts, pine nuts, pecans, hazelnuts and pistachio round out the nut category, with sunflower, sesame, nigella, black sesame, poppy, flax and pumpkin coming in a close second. Don’t forget sprouting seeds, which increase nutritional value and create a whole new flavor profile.

• Dried Fruit.

Cherries, prunes, apricots, cranberries, figs, apples and pears are all a great juxtaposition to nuts, sour cheeses, bacon and charcuterie. They offer a sweet and intense respite from redundant savory flavors on a pizza. Some of these can be rehydrated before mixing or made into chutneys, sauces and gastriques (a de-glazed sweet fruit with vinegar).

• Allium.

Believe it or not, this category is one of my favorites for dough infusions. Onions, leeks, scallions, garlic, ramps, chives and black garlic are the best partners with cheese, meats, vegetables and spices. I make a pizza with roasted leek, grated Parmigiano and artichoke that’s a real showstopper with pureed roasted garlic and salami. In the spring, I harvest ramps and infuse them in the dough for a Gruyere and bacon pizza. The key dynamics of alliums is pairing them with spices. Curry spreads so much better in a dough than curry powder, while garlic with anchovy makes for a memorable pizza dough.

JOHN GUTEKANST owns Avalanche Pizza in Athens, Ohio.

Did you miss Part 1?

Knead to Know: Liquid Courage

Infusing pizza dough with flavor and finesse (Part One) We pizza makers immerse ourselves into the science, craft and business of perfecting pizzas every day.

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New York, New York, it’s a helluva town! I recently attended a conference for the hospitality industry, and one of the questions I heard was, “What is New York cuisine?” Of course, there were a multitude of answers that included every culture that ultimately pinned New York cuisine as a melting pot.

All of this is true. But if you were to ask anyone on the street, “What’s the first food you think of when you think of New York?” I’m betting the answer would most likely be PIZZA – and a slice at that. How do you define New York pizza? This question for the ages is continuously evolving.

Pizza in New York is so varied. Just like New York cuisine is a blend of different cultures, New York is a city where you can find almost every type of pizza from thin and crispy to soft and pillowy to every pan style you can think of and everything in between.

But the New York slice is one that defines the New York pizza scene.

Even the slice is extremely varied. For the “old-school” slice that is cheap and quick, you’ll find recipes that contain lower hydrations in the mid- to high-50 percentiles and flours that range in protein contents but hover around 13.5-14.5 percent. When talking about New York style pizza, the flour I most commonly hear about is always the bromated variety. It is a high-protein, high-gluten flour; bromate is an additive that helps soften the dough, which makes it easy to stretch. Bromate is outlawed in some states because it has been found to cause cancer in certain quantities. If you are looking for it, be advised to check the bags.

If you talk to some of the old-school pizza shops, they might mention using eggs or milk in their pizza dough, but it is not a common practice these days – especially since the cost of dairy and eggs has risen so much recently. Since classic New York pizza is cooked in a gas deck oven, we are looking at lower cook temperatures. Some doughs may have a small amount of sugar added, but not all pizzerias use it. Flour naturally has some sugar present, so it isn’t always needed as an additional ingredient. Oil is another ingredient you may or may not hear about being used, as it is an additional cost that isn’t always needed. Remember, a lot of OG pizzerias started in New York came from bread backgrounds, so original recipes are going to carry certain similarities to bread, which normally do not contain fats, aside from focaccia.

For the toppings, ingredients normally are simple and to the point. A slice of plain (aka plain cheese) is probably ordered most frequently, and it hits the spot every time.

For the “new-school” slice, I’m seeing blended flours

– small percentages of fresh milled flour – various kinds of mozzarella and cheeses, and ingredients that would be considered a little more outside the box, showing the influence of different cultures. Dough recipes are evolving with higher hydrations, inclusion of preferments and the blending of techniques that come from bread but also blending different pizza styles to create new hybrids.

With the advancement of oven technology, electric ovens have really taken off in the pizza scene. Nowadays, it is common to find an electric oven in a slice shop, whether alongside a gas oven or by itself. Electric ovens can reach higher temperatures and even have steam capability, which has really changed the game for pizza. Ultimately, whether “old school” or “new school,” the quintessential triangular slice should be folded when eaten and crack but not break.

Today’s New York slice is not solely triangular. Although this is the slice most associated with New York pizza, let us not forget about the square. Squares always have been found in New York, and you can find them at places like Prince Street for the old school and Mama’s Too for the new-school Sicilian square slice. You also may find it named sfincione, but this is specific to the toppings, which include tomato, breadcrumbs, anchovies and pecorino cheese. Delicious!

At the end of the day, I am a proud Bay Area Californian who’s been making pizza for almost 20 years. I am not a New Yorker, nor would I ever claim to be. If you want to know the nitty gritty, I recommend reaching out to someone like Scott Wiener, owner of Scott’s Pizza Tours, who can literally school you on the history and evolution of pizza in New York. Bring a notebook!

Here is an Old-school New York Pizza Dough Formula:

100% high-protein, high-gluten flour

55%-58% water

0.25% instant yeast

2% salt

1%-2% olive oil

Here is a New School New York Pizza Dough Formula:

100% flour

10%-20% Biga or Poolish starter

65%-68% water

0.05% instant yeast

2% oil

2%-2.5% salt

Laura Meyer is the owner of Pizzeria da Laura in Berkeley, California.

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We pizza makers immerse ourselves into the science, craft and business of perfecting pizzas every day. The basis for any great pizza is usually milled wheat of some type mixed with water and a fermentative vehicle that, with the help of time and temperature, produces gases. These gases produce carbon dioxide, whose carbonic acids taste slightly sour when they hit the receptors of the tongue. Other flavors depend on additive elements in the dough such as flavorful liquids. This is the cliff face I want to geek out on, without doing a Wile E. Coyote swan-dive into the desert floor. Let’s start with the rules of the past, then drive fast to the future.

“When it comes to the rules of cooking, the one that supersedes them all is what I call ‘The Flavor Rule.’ That is, flavor rules! And one way to infuse flavor in dough is through liquids that already carry flavor.” – Peter Reinhart Baker, Educator and James Beard Award-winning author of “Pizza Quest,” “Perfect Pan Pizza” and “American Pie”

Foreign Influence

Many great minds have created categorical definitions for bread and pizza dough that have formed over years of human history. These different doughs formed slowly in cultures depending upon location, weather, soil, history and resources. For instance, the traditional Tuscan bread named Pane Sciocco, meaning “simple bread,” does not contain any salt. This is because in the Middle Ages the city of Pisa controlled the salt trade and taxed salt. Here are some traditional bread dough categories:

Stiff, Standard and Rustic: These are made according to hydration, from very firm to tacky and sticky, accordingly.

Lean: Made with little or no fat or sugar – a very hard dough.

Enriched: Medium-soft dough made with less than 20 percent fat – can also include sugar, eggs and milk.

Rich: Over 20 percent fat, may also include eggs, sugar and milk.

Flat: This is baked thinly and is soft and crisp. It may or may not include yeast.

Mixed Blessing

Mixing doughs is just as important as every other step in your baking routine, and what liquids you use can make all aspects of any pizza or bread react differently. But first, a word on absorption.

Absorption is defined as the amount of liquid your flour can suck up and hold while being made into a simple dough. This is often expressed as a percentage of the weight of the flour itself, usually known as Bakers’ Percentage. So, if you add 40 pounds of water to 100 pounds of flour, your absorption ratio is 40 percent. Because starch is the largest volume of any flour, it absorbs most of the liquid, but only up to ¼ to ½ of its weight. Proteins absorb up to twice their weight in water, so variations in protein levels in your flour can make a big difference in absorption. As an example, a high-protein flour with 80-percent absorption will, under the proper circumstances, produce a dynamic oven-spring (the initial rise when the dough hits the hot oven stones) because of the steam in the dough. It also will produce a crisp, blistered crust and large, waxy alveoli in the cornicione, or crust, if aged properly.

Fluid Situation

There are many examples of infusing bread with flavorful liquids with or without water.

Beer

It is fermented with different yeasts – Saccharomyces cerevisiae, known as “Brewers Yeast,” is in ales, and Saccharomyces pastorianus in lagers. You may get a different outcome in your pizza dough for each of these. For instance, ale yeast ferments better in hotter temperatures and lager in colder temps. Hops, heat, alcohol and acidity in beer all can affect any dough that is risen from freshly brewed beer. This is why a lot of bakers boost beer doughs with sourdough starter, baking powder, pre-ferments and/or instant-rise flour. The magical quality that beer adds to a pizza dough is flavor. IPA beer will add a hoppy, bitter taste, while lagers will add a malty flavor, and porters, stouts and brown ales will add a rich chocolate or coffee flavor.

Malt

This addition to pizza dough has an enzyme named amylase that breaks starch into sugars that the yeasties love. This results in a deeper brown crust and a more vigorous rise. The two malts are diastatic and non-diastatic. Non-diastatic adds color and sweet, malty flavor, while diastatic malt helps when a fast bake time is looming; it bakes to a higher volume and a more tender cell structure.

Honey

More pizza makers are using honey in their pizza dough because it is a natural sweet vehicle for yeasts to feed upon. Honey also is a natural humectant that draws in moisture and will make for softer dough. It does help with the maillard* reaction in crust by having a lot of simple sugars that create a richer color and deeper flavor. (** A reaction when amino acids and sugars in food are heated to create browning.)

Porridge

It is ironic that historically the precursor to bread was porridge, and there are many instances of whole peoples being mocked as “porridge eaters.” The procedure of adding porridge to dough is now on the cutting edge of creativity in the artisan baking community. It is born of the popularity of whole and alternative grains, which are practically devoid of gluten, in breads and pizzas without producing a brick-like texture. By cooking or soaking whole grains with water before mixing, a fermentation produces a mild cheesy aroma. Adding over 50 percent of this porridge to each batch adds digestibility and longevity to the bread or pizza dough. Because the porridge is barely cooked, it needs lower baking temperatures, par-baking stages and extra time to set up before slicing.

Curry

There is no better statement of your innovative creativity than a curry-crusted pizza! This mix starts with roasting onions with curry powder and extra virgin olive oil, grinding them into a liquid and adding it to any dough mix. Sometimes, raisins or walnuts will multiply the flavor bomb but may inhibit some forming techniques. I’ve done this for years with great results!

Matcha Tea

This addition provides a nice earthy, sweet, vegetal taste to pizza dough. The biggest attribute being the bright green color like in Japanese Milk Bread. This pizza dough needs to be baked at 500 F or below because you may get a brown crusting on the color at higher temps.

Maple Syrup

Because I have access to many friends who make maple syrup, I’ve spent years trying to perfect the best maple bread and pizza dough around. The deep sweetness of maple infused in bread is a real crowd pleaser and best partnered with spelt and whole wheat. Like Matcha, maple syrup must be watched or baked on a parchment-covered pan in lower heat because the sugars may caramelize too much.

JOHN GUTEKANST owns Avalanche Pizza in Athens, Ohio.

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“The magic of pizza and the foundation for it – the dough – is often hidden behind closed doors, but as a restaurant group, we love to celebrate the craft and the process behind everything we do,” says co-founder and Chef Ryan Pollnow. “It’s why our handcrafted pasta production is on display in our Flour + Water Pasta Shop, as well. Our flagship Pizzeria dough room is at the center of the restaurant, located between our full-service dining room and our quick-service Pizza Shop space. It’s the heartbeat of our flagship and entire pizza program.”

Flour + Water is joined by other pizzerias, large and small, looking to perfect dough making and management. When Pizza Today visited our 2021 Pizzeria of the Year, Razza Pizza Artigianale in Jersey City, New Jersey, owner Dan Richer was in the midst of building out a dedicated dough room.

In Editor In Chief Jeremy White’s December 2021 feature article, Richer said, “We’ll be able to better control variables in that room. We’ve got water lines dialed in to the exact temperature we want, we’ll control the air temperature in there to what we want. It’s going to make such a difference to our consistency and our ability to put out the pizza dough we want to put out.” Four years later, we caught up with Richer for an update.

Rose City Pizza, a ’90s-themed pizza joint in Covina, California, took a different approach and adapted a space previously used for dry storage into a designated dough area. Owner Brian Nittayo was looking to address environmental issues impacting the consistency in his dough-making area, which was by a back door.

The three pizzerias have very different dough room setups, but they share a common drive to make the best pizza dough they can.

What Is a Dough Room?

Typically, a dough room is a self-contained temperature-controlled room or area for dough making. Alastair Hannman (aka The Pizza Buddha), a pizzeria consultant who worked with Nittayo to convert a storage area into a dough room, says, “To me, a dough room is a room that is separated from the hot line. What I mean by that is it is not susceptible to the oven temperature. It’s got a residual humidity under 75 percent to where you are able to maintain it.”

Dough rooms aren’t new. Many pizzerias over the years have incorporated dough rooms into their pizza dough-making process. As techniques changed, operations shifted to using fermentation shelves a.k.a. fermentation containers.

Dough-making environments are constantly shifting, and operators are constantly looking for ways to add consistency to the dough process. Enter dough rooms of today.

Dough Room Features Focus on Tech and Consistency

Razza’s dough room is all business. Richer says, “Our equipment includes a spiral dough mixer and a water meter – something I’ll never build another restaurant without. The water meter has proven to be a huge time-saver for accurately dosing the correct water quantity and temperature. It is also connected to a water chiller, which eliminates the need for ice. While water chillers can be pricey, they are especially beneficial in hot climates. We have a Thermoworks node, which is a thermometer that tracks the temp of the room 24/7, and you can set alerts to be notified if the temp is outside of the range that you set. Ideally, the dough room would have its own dedicated AC unit, but that can be expensive.” Richer commends installing an air filtration system, if possible. The room includes a proofer/retarder, which he says was a mistake because the compressor can affect the room’s temperature.

Flour + Water features include a 70-quart spiral mixer, four proofer retarders, a blast freezer for its upcoming frozen line, dough rounder, scales and a small 6-kilo max capacity spiral mixer. “Other features include wall-mounted filtered water for use in our dough, and a table made from a recycled paper composite material called Richlite. We love Richlite here, as the table doubles as both a prep table and a dining table for guests when the space transforms to a semi-private space for larger parties at night,” says Pollnow. “The surface has natural grip to it which is essential for portioning dough balls, and it can be cleaned easily, so it offers an aesthetically pleasing dining surface for our guests at night.”

In addition to the mixer, Nittayo wanted to automate his dough-making space. “We have the dough divider and the dough rounder,” he says.” Everything flows. We have the water meter. It measures out 24 pounds, exactly into the mixture.” Automation has paid off tenfold for Nittayo as Rose City is able to generate more output and labor efficiency. The dough-making efficiency, along with new conveyor ovens and reducing the menu size, has even sparked him to lower prices.

Fermentation Temperature

When it comes to dough texture and flavor, one of the most significant benefits is the vital element of dough making: temperature. “Those characteristics can be achieved at any temperature, but without temperature control, your results will be inconsistent from day to day. Having a dough room allows us to control the ambient temperature, which is especially important when using preferments of any kind and when bulk fermentation lasts longer than 30 minutes.”

With Flour + Water’s build out, they took advantage of San Francisco’s mild weather. “The room is equipped with air conditioning, but because of the location of the dough room within our space (away from windows and the heat of our Pizza-Master electric deck ovens and kitchen equipment), the space sits between 72 and 74 degrees, year-round – without the use of AC. We’re constantly monitoring the temp and humidity in the room to portion dough at that true room temperature.

Think of the room itself as a clean room. For Flour + Water and Razza, the spaces are enclosed rooms. Razza has floor-to-ceiling tiled walls and floor drains so it is easy to clean. It also features a window to help employees not feel claustrophobic. At Rose City Pizza, Hannman and Nittayo went with a new version of FRP wall panels with the smooth side out to make cleaning easier.

Since Nittayo made use of an existing dry-storage area that had air conditioning duct work, he was able to simplify the conversion and add clear vinyl curtains at the entry to the area, limiting the exposure to other areas of the kitchen and storage.

While costs can vary depending on size of room and features included, Nittayo’s conversion was a few thousand dollars, according to Hannman, not including the addition of the automated equipment.

Dough Rooms Are ‘a Luxury’

Pollnow realizes a dedicated dough room may not be an option for other pizzerias. “We recognize building a dough room is a luxury, but it’s not a necessity for great pizza production. Because our dough room will be acting as a commissary for satellite Pizza Shops and our retail frozen pizza line, we built it to be large. But if you are looking for similar benefits in terms of temperature control, we do recommend investing in a proofer retarder, especially if you are working in a setting that runs hot because of other equipment.”

Richer concurs. “I’ve been making pizza for more than 20 years, but it’s only in the past three years that I’ve had a dedicated dough room. It is possible to achieve consistency if you truly understand your space, can be flexible in the moment, and are able to adapt to daily changes.”

Denise Greer is Executive Editor at Pizza Today.

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