Pizza Styles & Dough

At Genova Pizza in Audubon, New Jersey, our dough is where it all begins. It’s cold-proofed for 48 hours to lock in that rich flavor and give it the perfect chew – crispy on the bottom, airy on the inside. We lean into a New York-style base, but we’ve built our own lane with creations like the upside-down Sicilian and our famous vodka pie. It’s classic, but with a Genova edge. Every slice is made with intention.

What inspired you to honor your grandmother with a mural?

She was the soul of our family. Strong, nurturing and the original engine behind everything we do. When we took over Genova, we knew we had to honor her in a big way. The mural isn’t just art, it’s our “thank you.” Now, her face watches over the shop, and she’s part of every slice we serve.

What was the process of finding an artist and the logistics of having the mural painted?

We weren’t going to settle. We needed someone who got it – someone who could bring her spirit to life, not just her smile. After searching local artists, we found someone who understood the assignment. The process wasn’t easy – weather delays, tight windows and some last-minute ladder drama – but when that final brushstroke hit, it changed everything. It became a part of the neighborhood.

How else do you keep your family legacy going with your multi-generational pizzeria?

Legacy is everything here. My father spent years baking in Corsica, France. He learned the craft of breadmaking the hard way, by doing it every day. That knowledge got passed down to us, and it’s the backbone of our dough and our work ethic. We keep that same energy alive by treating our customers like family and making sure every plate that leaves the kitchen has heart behind it.

Your sandwiches also are stars. What makes them so special? Which is the most popular and why?

We don’t treat sandwiches like side items. They’re headliners. We build them fresh, hot and bold. The most talked-about? Our Chicken Vodka Cutlet. It’s a hand-breaded cutlet, house vodka sauce and melted mozzarella stacked high on a toasted roll. It’s messy, it’s comforting, and it’s uniquely Genova. Once people try it, it becomes their go-to.

The post Ali Doukali of Genova Pizza | Conversation appeared first on Pizza Today.

LloydPans has designed the perfect Sicilian-Style Pizza Pans in sizes ranging from 6×6 inches to 18×18 inches. Each of our Sicilian-Style Pizza Pans features:
● A 76-degree side angle allowing for pan nesting when empty, saving storage space
● A durable, double-thick flat rim that adds strength and long-lasting durability
● A heavy duty 14-gauge aluminum that bakes efficiently by transferring heat in an effectual and timely manner
● Our exclusive PRE SEASONED TUFF-KOTE finish that eliminates the need for pre-seasoning and is a permanent, stick-resistant coating
● Easy depanning and cleaning, even with the tight corners of Sicilian pizza

In addition to Sicilian-Style Pizza Pans, LloydPans also produces Sicilian Pizza Pan Lids for stacking and making prep more efficient.

LloydPans, a U.S. manufacturer of commercial pizza pans and tools, bakeware, cookware and foodservice equipment, is located in Spokane Valley, Wash. In addition to an extensive line of standard products, LloydPans also offers custom solutions for just about anything their customers need. LloydPans’ products are sold online at www.lloydpans.com and through distributors.

LloydPans
800-748-6251
www.lloydpans.com
sales@lloydpans.com

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Have you ever been to Sicily? The first time I visited Sicily, I knew nothing about the place outside of it being the island in the south being kicked by the boot of mainland Italy. This was before I had ever watched “The Godfather” and was right at the beginning of my pizza career. I had no clue about the different styles of pizza – let alone the impact simple things could have on food culture.

Sicily, to me, is one of the meccas of street food, and Sicilian-style pizza as we know it today got its humble beginnings among the simple people. Nowadays, when you see Sicilian-style pizza on a menu, it generally means a thick-crust pizza made in a rectangular pan cut into square slices. Beyond that, the range and application of toppings varies just as much as any other pizza style. Like other styles, the line between bread and Sicilian “pizza” has blurred tremendously, with techniques associated with other pizza styles blended into it. That said, Sicilian pizza traces its inception back to sfincione.

Sfincione, meaning “soft sponge,” is one of the OG street foods found in Sicily’s capital city, Palermo. It is topped with tomato sauce and a mixture of cacciocavallo cheese, breadcrumbs, anchovies, onions, olive oil, salt and oregano. Sfincione is easily found all over Palermo with different variations existing outside the capital city. Mozzarella did not find its way onto Sicilian-style pizza until it left the homeland. Mozzarella is not a cheese traditionally associated with Sicily since cows and water buffalo are not generally found on the island. Instead, sheep’s milk and goat’s milk cheeses are more common. It is hard for me to call sfincione “pizza,” in that it is something unique unto itself. Just how focaccia is focaccia no matter what’s on top, sfincione is in its own category with Sicilian-style pizza evolving from it.

When I first started thinking about Sicilian-style pizza and how to define it, I knew I would have to go to two masters of the style. Their names have become synonymous with Sicilian-style pizza, and their versions of this pan style wows everyone when they try it. Chris Decker and John Arena have developed a five-day fermented Sicilian that incorporates freezing to help additional moisture evaporate out of the dough, adding to the crispy final texture. When speaking with both Chris and John, they described their Sicilian pizza as “looking like a brick but feels like a feather.” Sicilian pizza typically is one of the thickest of the pan styles. It normally has a crispy bottom, is ¾ to a full inch in thickness and has a moderately open crumb structure. It can be confusing to talk about the interior crumb because the trend right now is big, open structure. Sicilians tend to have a more closed structure with many smaller bubbles as opposed to large, sporadic bubbles as in Roman-style pizza and even some versions of focaccia.

Sicilians land between focaccia and the Roman pan style in that focaccia is very closely related to the Sicilian in its original form. Roman techniques and flours have begun to creep into the Sicilian style, turning it into a sort of hybrid. Roman can take upwards of three days and have a high hydration leading to a very thin, crispy crust with a very large and airy open crumb structure. Since a lot of toppings are put on after the cooking process in Roman pans, it makes sense to have a large, open crumb structure. The Sicilian style is meant to carry a heavier, wetter ingredient load, so having a spongier texture that can hold everything without deflating it is ideal. Using long and controlled fermentation times – as Chris and John do – give the Sicilian a lightness to the interior.

Hydrations into the 70s and above are more common with Roman styles and breads, although they can be found with some Sicilians. When it comes to higher hydrations, cook temps and whether doughs are topped and baked from raw – or par-baked then topped and cooked – lends to very different finished products. The debate over par bakes or cooked form raw extends into Sicilians. For those looking for a slight crisp and a very soft interior, cooking from raw will give you that texture – albeit a longer cook time. Par baking is going to give you a soft interior, but the double bake is going to cook out more of the moisture, giving you a firmer outer crust. If you are making a New York-style dough that is cooked in a 500-550 F oven, the same dough can be used for a Sicilian.

Incorporating Sicilians into an operation is fairly easy, although time is going to be your biggest factor. Sicilians require a rising period after they’ve been pushed into the pan – and then a second period if they require an additional stretch to get the dough into the corners. This double-rise process as well as large quantities can take hours. Adding this into an operation could mean the addition of new equipment like a proofing cabinet and pans as well as an extra prep person on payroll. Although it may sound like a lot of work, Sicilians are one of the best pizzas for takeaway and delivery as they reheat impeccably and don’t become soggy as quickly as thinner pizzas. Sicilians also are a great catering style, as they can be par-baked in advance and transported to a site without worrying about your dough overproofing or having been mishandled.

The Sicilian style is one with a deep-rooted history but one that has evolved many times since its beginnings in the United States. I imagine it will continue to evolve as trends change, but the origins of the style make it worth traveling to Sicily.

LAURA MEYER is owner of Pizzeria da Laura in Berkeley, California.

>> Explore Pizza Dough Recipes for Top Trending Pizza Styles including Detroit, New York, Grandma, Sicilian, Chicago Thin and Deep Dish. <<

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In the first few months that we were open, someone wrote a scathing review on how terrible our deep-dish pizza was. They said, “while the bottom was crispy, it was mostly dough, and seriously lacking cheese and toppings,” along with some other choice descriptions of the pie. While I now know better than to even read Yelp, as I take every bad review to heart, this was not one of them. I can tell you that we didn’t make deep dish pizza then and we don’t make it now. It is not a style that I am very familiar with, nor will I claim to know very much about. What this person was describing is our Sicilian-style pizza. Yes, Sicilians are also baked in a pan, but structured totally different than Chicago deep dish pies. The whole experience was just my first taste of how important it is to constantly educate your customers on your product.

While, at least in my mind, Chicago deep dish and Sicilian are two very different pies, there are some styles that share similar characteristics and tend to blur the lines. We’re talking Grandmas and Sicilians — two of my absolute favorites. I’ve eaten quite a bit of each and it’s always interesting to see people’s different takes on them. We sell both at my pizzeria and it is interesting to observe how a lot of people strongly prefer one or the other. While they are both a style of pizza that is risen in an oiled pan with a crispy bottom, a lot of the similarities stop there. The obvious differences being the shape of pan used and height of the pie.

My version of a Grandma pie isn’t exactly a typical one. I call it Patty style after my mom, and it is the pizza she made me growing up. It’s a thin pan pie, with cheese spilling over the edges and sesame seeds lining the bottom. We don’t rise or par bake our Grandmas. Something that I believe is not technically correct, but I’ve tried both ways and this is what I prefer. The seeds and extra virgin olive oil create an almost buttery taste, which, combined with the caramelized cheese eludes to pure decadence. The dough rises enough in the oven to create air pockets, while still maintaining a denser crust. Our Sicilians on the other hand are quite the opposite. It is a style that I have worked tirelessly on over the years and finally asked the advice of someone whose Sicilians are legendary. The one and only Chris Decker, chef/partner at Metro Pizza in Las Vegas.

They are risen for hours and then par baked. The bottom should always be crispy, providing a nice crunch to contrast the pillowy, light middle. They are rectangular in shape as opposed to the traditional square shape of a Grandma. All of our pizza is naturally leavened, AKA sourdough. The Sicilian is where you can truly taste the beauty of this method. The long rise and fermentation really accentuates the flavor and strengthens the texture. I think of Sicilians as a cloud that carries a light amount of toppings. Some people might think that since the Sicilian is thicker in structure it can hold up to more toppings. This is a valid point. However, the beauty of this pie is to taste the phenomenal flavor and structure of the dough. As such, I believe whatever it is topped with should highlight and enhance it instead of covering it up.

My favorite is when it is made into an OTP or Original Tomato Pie. Sliced mozzarella on the bottom with sauce, garlic, extra virgin olive oil, Sicilian oregano and grated Parmesan on top. I cannot take credit for this. Everything I learned about OTP’s was from Tony Gemignani. As with most things pizza, he taught me the true beauty and simplicity of this pie. Tony is a pizzaiolo who sticks truly to the origins of a style of pizza. If you eat a pie at any of his places you know that it will not only be one of the best pizzas you ever have, but it will also be technically correct. I, on the other hand, like to have a base knowledge of a style and then veer off in my own interpretation of it. So, to give you a more concrete definition of what exactly the differences and similarities are of Sicilians and Grandma pizzas I thought I would ask a few people I consider to be experts.

Tony said that “the bottom on a Grandma tends to be crispier because more oil is used so it has an almost fried texture.” The perfect description of something I always try to create but never know how to put into words. Giovanni Cesarano, of King Umberto’s, agrees that it should have a crispy bottom, finishing the pie on the deck of the oven to achieve that quality. Cesarano also says that the sauce is an important characteristic of the Grandma, stating that the “traditional style toppings are an uncooked plum tomato sauce with plenty of flavor. You should be able to taste the garlic, and less cheese than a regular pie.” Gemignani also acknowledged this important fact, describing Grandmas as “more sauce centric.” As for Sicilians, Decker says that one of the most important qualities is “proof time.” This is what makes the Sicilian thicker and airier as opposed to the thinner, crunchier Grandma.

As with making any style of pizza, I believe that the fun and beauty in it is creating a product that reflects you and that you are happy with. Some people like their Sicilians with huge air pockets, others prefer them dense. I’ve had Grandmas that are soft and melt in your mouth and others as crunchy as a cracker. If you want to pile on the toppings, well that is up to you. The one characteristic of the two that any pizza maker I know will insist and judge it on is that it better have a good, crispy bottom.

In the wise words of Chris Decker, I leave you with this, “Both pizzas are fantastic when cooked with the most important ingredient of all time, love.”

Audrey Kelly is the owner and pizziola at Audrey Jane’s Pizza Garage in Boulder, CO.

>> Explore Pizza Dough Recipes for Top Trending Pizza Styles including Detroit, New York, Grandma, Sicilian, Chicago Thin and Deep Dish. <<

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