Breaking and Entering

For centuries, artisan bakers have been adding flavors to their dough to give customers a delightful, textural crunch and flavor excitement. From salty olives that the ancient Etruscans mixed into their wet dough to the spicy sweetness of brushing green chili jam on a hot crust today, experimenting with new ingredients pushes the boundaries of taste.

These items can meld with different flours, dough hydrations and pizza toppings to define your personal approach. Even though bakers have been infusing breads for centuries, pizza crusts have remained relatively untouched – probably because our dough has a lower height and thinner profile, and pizzas already are topped with a variety of flavors. What if this coin was flipped, and the flavor profile of each pizza was a combination of base and toppings?

X-Men

Integrating solid items into pizza dough may be a giant leap for most pizza makers, but if you start by dipping your sesame-coated toe into this vat of creativity, you may get hooked. If you are delving into solid-flavored crusts for the first time, you should ask yourself: Are all my taste sensations activated so I want to go back for a second bite or a second slice?

The flavor factor depends on taste, touch (mouthfeel), aroma and what some call the “X” factor. This last factor is an amalgamation of all the above, creating a sense of place and time. Flavor depends on what is perceived by the mouth, nose and eyes. Sweetness, saltiness, sourness, bitterness and umami are all mouth activations. Texture, piquancy (hotness) and astringency (the “pucker effect”) are residual mouth sensations. Because we are working with cooked and crispy wheat products, texture is usually the No. 1 sensory factor when creating pizza crusts.

Planting Evidence

Mixing flavors into dough can be a complicated affair if these items are too large, sharp, flaccid or leach components that inhibit yeast growth. Any sharp item can puncture the waxy alveoli in the dough’s cell structure as it rises. Items too long and flaccid will inhibit the formation, balling and cutting of the dough ball, and items that are too fatty can burn on the oven bricks.

Here are some items that can be fun to integrate into your pizza dough:

• Herbs.

This is a sure-fire way to integrate flavor into dough. Rosemary, cilantro, parsley, basil, tarragon, chervil and arugula integrate well with fatty meat toppings and cheeses. Be sure to chop items such as rosemary, which can be too strong. Herbs are great partners to onions and garlic. Fatty cheeses also complement the strong herbaceous notes.

• Pork Products.

Bacon, soppressata, salami and other fatty charcuterie can be cooked and chopped into small slices before it is kneaded into the dough. Just be sure to partially bake bacon and soak up the fat with paper towels before incorporating pieces into the dough. A thin chiffonade cut with Prosciutto di Parma shank and end cuts of salami will save you money and add major flavor to pizza crust.

• Spices.

Wow. That’s usually the reaction when a person bites into a Za’atar covered crust or a green peppercorn-infused crust. We’ve come a long way from pepper-flake-added pizza dough. Now, many inventive pizza makers are experimenting with ghost pepper, fennel pollen, spicebush berries, Szechuan peppercorns, cardamom, caraway, coriander and even Chinese seven-spice dough.

• Seeds and Nuts.

Both offer a wonderful expansion of textural enjoyment in pizza dough. The rule that “smaller is better” comes to the fore here. Walnuts, pine nuts, pecans, hazelnuts and pistachio round out the nut category, with sunflower, sesame, nigella, black sesame, poppy, flax and pumpkin coming in a close second. Don’t forget sprouting seeds, which increase nutritional value and create a whole new flavor profile.

• Dried Fruit.

Cherries, prunes, apricots, cranberries, figs, apples and pears are all a great juxtaposition to nuts, sour cheeses, bacon and charcuterie. They offer a sweet and intense respite from redundant savory flavors on a pizza. Some of these can be rehydrated before mixing or made into chutneys, sauces and gastriques (a de-glazed sweet fruit with vinegar).

• Allium.

Believe it or not, this category is one of my favorites for dough infusions. Onions, leeks, scallions, garlic, ramps, chives and black garlic are the best partners with cheese, meats, vegetables and spices. I make a pizza with roasted leek, grated Parmigiano and artichoke that’s a real showstopper with pureed roasted garlic and salami. In the spring, I harvest ramps and infuse them in the dough for a Gruyere and bacon pizza. The key dynamics of alliums is pairing them with spices. Curry spreads so much better in a dough than curry powder, while garlic with anchovy makes for a memorable pizza dough.

JOHN GUTEKANST owns Avalanche Pizza in Athens, Ohio.

Did you miss Part 1?

Knead to Know: Liquid Courage

Infusing pizza dough with flavor and finesse (Part One) We pizza makers immerse ourselves into the science, craft and business of perfecting pizzas every day.

The post What to Know When Adding Herbs, Spices and Other Elements to Your Pizza Dough | Knead to Know appeared first on Pizza Today.

“The most important part begins even before you put your hand on your sword.”

Matsura Seizan, Famed Japanese Swordsman 1760-1841

It was 2018, at the International Pizza Challenge in Las Vegas, that Lenny and Gino Ragu of Panino’s Pizzeria of Chicago presented a thin-crust, tavern style pizza to the judges. This pizza had been designed years ago by their uncles, who owned the tavern. I had never seen this type of micro-regional pizza style in competition, but the charred crust was adorned with a perfect ratio of sausage, pepperoni and bacon. Small dollops of mozzarella and the drizzle of house-made barbeque sauce made it look delicious. Lenny and Gino Ragu were trailblazers, but didn’t win. As I fast-forward to “the now,” not only is this style trending across the country, but the Ragus have also won many competitions with it.

Sound Bite: The Sounds of the Pizza Competition

“A pizza must awaken the senses to stand out in competition. Be a chef and hit the judges with some fabulous color and flavor  –  but most importantly, follow the rules,” says Domenico Crolla, chef, entrepreneur and IPC judge.

As you wander into the heart of this year’s International Pizza Expo, you’ll probably hear a mash-up of noises sounding like a rodeo, a Green Day concert and a Formula 1 race, all in unison. This is the excitement of the International Pizza Challenge and, along with the demonstrations, is at the creative core of the show. With over 600 challengers, it is an amazing competition, filled with seriousness, fun, camaraderie and delicious pizza tastings for the spectators. In this pizza competition, there are no business worries, no late employees, broken equipment, gruff customers or bad plumbing. It’s just you and the beating heart of your restaurant  –  the pizza.

Formula Win: Helpful Hints for International Pizza Challenge Competitors

“A good judge will ignore their personal likes and dislikes. Their task is to be as knowledgeable as possible about different styles and their defining characteristics and common flaws. It’s really an exercise in objectivity,” says Scott Wiener, owner of Scott’s Pizza Tours and founder of Slice Out Hunger.

Each year, I see the two types of competitors. One prepared and the other unprepared. Just like the swordsman of ancient Japan, the preparedness is the most important part of any pizza competition. This year, Scott Wiener says that the pizza judging emphasis is on traditions, innovation, flavor and technique. Each contestant and judge will be afforded the best parameters and information to alleviate any questions, hesitations and stumbling blocks. Here are some helpful hints to bring you closer to the winner’s circle in Las Vegas:

1. Bring an assistant that can help you and not hover over you with stupid comments while you make your pizza.
2. Bring your own dough or have a solid plan for both the mixer and the flour to be waiting for you at the Expo. Always have back-up dough, flour, yeast and salt.
3. Bring all the utensils you will need to make your pie with sanitation in mind. Plan locations of butcher shops, grocery stores or even cheese mongers within taxi or ride-share distance.
4. If you are flying in with dough and refrigerated toppings, do not use ice made from water for the flight. Ice is too heavy and will melt too easily, flooding your (possibly upside down) cooler in the cargo hold of a plane.
5. Register early and bring your toppings and dough immediately to the show competition floor where there are plenty of refrigerators. Always attend the pre-competition informational meetings. This could mean the difference between victory and disqualification.
6. If you are competing in a rules-based competition like the Napoletana division, you may be asked about hydration, salt percentage, how hot you baked it as well as your fermentation time and procedure.
7. Practice on an oven you know. Don’t rush or overcook your pizza. This comes from second guessing yourself and happens a lot.

Making the Cut: Trending Pizza Styles to Look for in 2025

“The best pizzas I’ve seen come from competitors that come early and stay late. They practice baking in the oven they plan to use while fine tuning their recipe. The secret to a great competition pie is a perfect bake and a balanced recipe,” says Jeremy Galvin, president of Master Pizza and IPC lead coordinator.

Some the most edgy trends in the U.S. pizza world have their origins in the International Pizza Challenge. Here are some new trending pizza styles you may see in 2025:

• Square Pies: Scott Wiener says, “Square pies are big now, with Grandma Pizzas leading the way.” Large or long Roman-style Pizza in Teglia, known for its high hydration producing airy alveoli and crisp, pan-baked crust. Detroit pizzas are still big now also.
• Tavern Style Pizzas: This thin-crust pizza is a textural bombshell. The techniques and construction of this pie exhibits how restraint and fewer toppings can still be a major player in a world series of flavor.
• Sourdough, Biga and Poolish Pre-ferments: Digestibility and deep flavors are the hallmark of these crisp and airy pizza crusts. Perfect timing of natural and/or aged direct method doughs, along with cold fermentation and medium-high baking can produce a memorable pizza. These pizzas stand out and are annulated with a cornicione, or crust, sprung with strong and waxy gluten scaffolding and a bark of shiny micro or macro blistering that tends to blow the judges away.
  
• Pizza alla Pala: Originally from Rome, this long, oval or squarish dough is presented into the oven on a pizza peel and baked in an electric oven. Usually topped with fresh ingredients that further highlight the textural complexity of the airy interior/crisp crust.
• New Flours: There are many new flours that pizzerias are trying to distinguish themselves from the herd. This happens in competition and is accepted very well by judges who may or may not tire of the same old dough platforms. The Puglian “Grano Arso,” or burnt grain, mimics the flour made from burnt wheatberries that the peasants of Puglia picked after the fields were fired. There is also the eyebrow-raising black pizza dough made with edible carbonized vegetables and coconuts. There is also the airy “Pinza” pizzas, either round or oval, from the word pinsere, meaning to press. These were originally peasants’ focaccia-type pizzsa made with barley, spelt, and millet. Modern Pinza pizzas are very airy and digestible, made with rice and soy flour mixed with 00 or spelt flours.

Meat your Maker: Topping Trend Predictions at the International Pizza Challenge

“It’s a privilege to have a front row seat to watch the best in the world compete for the right to be called World Champion Pizza Maker,” says Michael P. LaMarca, CEO of Master Pizza and IPC coordinator.

Here are some trending toppings that I expect to see at the International Pizza Challenge:

• House-made charcuterie: This meaty attribute contributes both salt, smoke and a great big dose of umami to any pizza. This great meat manipulation gets warmed up atop a pizza after the oven.
• Pickled Vegetables and fruits: These all offer a sweet or sour juxtaposition to the savory and salty cheeses, oily meats and crunchy greens but also add a fantastic visual for the judges to feast their eyes upon.
• Southwestern sauces: Spicy, cuminy, pepperish and thick, these finishers are bold and add a zing to any pie.
• Mushrooms of all types: The deep umami and meaty texture from mushrooms explode the flavor profiles on pizza, especially with beef, charcuterie, béchamel, Parmigiano and garlic.
• Vegan meats and cheeses: This has become a huge market, as exhibited by our Daiya Pizza Challenge. These different cheeses are both delicious and easily manipulated on pizza.
• Beef: Whether ground or topped as a warm finish, charred, cured or in balls, beef continues to elevate more pizzas now from the old dirt-like frozen beef topping.
• Sweet-spicy jams: Hot honey has opened the door, and many pizza makers are taking sweet-spice to new, and delicious levels. Flavored maple syrup and agave are just waiting in the wings.
• Crunchy finishes: More competitors are using the textural crunch to finish off their pizzas. Nuts, grains, brittle, frico and baked hard cheeses  –  and even dehydrated fruits and vegetables like eggplant and potato skins  –  are likely to be spotted at the IPC.

JOHN GUTEKANST owns Avalanche Pizza in Athens, Ohio.

Go to the Pizza Expo 2025 NEWS HUB: Latest News from the World’s Largest Pizza Show 

The post Great Advice on How to Win (and Lose) at the 2025 International Pizza Challenge appeared first on Pizza Today.

The new trend of thin and cracker crusted pizzas has arrived and the options to integrate thin crusts into your menu-mix are everywhere.

When you do a deep dive into thin crust pizzas in the country, you find that these pies were initially ordained to accommodate both the pizza customers and the pizza makers alike. Like all craftsmen, these pizza pioneers of the 40s, 50s and 60s used their pragmatism to achieve a thin crust goal while also thinking about their own history, the limits of their physical plant, and what pizza items were available. Many of the “Tavern Style” or “Bar Pizzas” were designed to keep customers in their seats, ordering another drink. Other thin-crust pizzas originated in working class neighborhoods to give workers a quick, hot slice and enable them to get back to work quickly. Thin crusts are not all cracker-thin with that audible crunch. This is because some of the makers wanted their customers to be able to fold the small slices with toppings into this mini pizza taco.

There are now many “Experts” online to tell you how to make the “Perfect” thin-crust pizza. Here are some things for a professional pizza maker to think about when designing your own thin crust pizzas. Warning: this is going to get geekza fast. Let’s just start with a formula you can remember.

FOHLPB (Flop):

F (flour) + O (oil) + H (hydration) +/- L (leaven) + P (Proofing) + B (Baking) = Thin for the win!

Flour:

The base of any thin-crust pizza starts with the grind and gluten contained in your flour. If you are sheeting your thin crusts to an ultra-thin skin, you may need a higher protein level of between 12-14% and high W rating. (Note: A “W” index rating is a measurement of a flour’s strength- high W between 220-330 is used for breads and pizzas, low W is for cakes and pastries.) Italian 00 flour is between 250-280 with a few exceptions. Higher protein or W gluten strands will absorb more water, negating the dry effects that produce crispness. This will produce a stronger dough which, if baked at a lower oven temperature, may produce a taffy-like and chewy crust. Commercial cracker protein content is usually a low 8% to 11.7%, or a W content of as low as 180, just strong enough to keep the dough manageable but low enough to reach the desired texture and crispness. Whatever flour you think may work best, there are other items, like cornmeal, you can add for crispness. As with all pizza, other variables can change any hard-line flour decision in your thin-crust pizza plan, including the following.

Hydration:

This is the double-edged sword of thin-crust pizza dough. To roll out dough into a thin and manageable crust, you’ll need the hydrated effects of water, but water produces swelling in any gluten scaffolding and if you are using higher protein flours, warm water soaks gluten strands quicker and more fully than lower protein flours. Some pizzerias use a super low hydration level of 40% which makes for a tough time in the dough room and becomes a training issue. I’ve had a wonderfully crisp Kernza crust at 20% hydration, but my dough staff slowly bumped the hydration up behind my back because it was easier to handle. There are some pizzerias that circumvent worrying about hydration by par-baking pizza crusts or use a simple little trick with oil below.

Oil:

It can be used with higher gluten flours in thin-crust pizzas to produce a nice crispy pie. Oil can also be used to coat the gluten strands to counteract the gluten being soaked with water. Some pizzerias use 10-15% oil in their mix, pouring it in before any hydration is added. (See recipe).

Leaven:

The separation of yeasted dough and leavening agents, like baking powder, can set the pace of how your thin crust reacts to being fired up in your ovens. In a strange paradox, yeasted doughs, when made, fermented, proofed and baked like thicker pizzas, are not good for a thin crunchy crust as they will be too airy. Even when less dough is used and you’ve rolled or sheeted it enough to read the newspaper through it, parts of the dough will give off carbon dioxide and separate like a thin pita bread. I’ve tested many thin-style doughs and added a small amount of yeast, aging it for up to 6 days and then curing it and docking it to produce a great, crispy thin crust. You may also opt to not use any yeast in your mix. This makes for a chewier crust, but it holds heavy toppings better.

Proofing:

I am finding a new method that works great in my pizzeria. I age my 50% hydrated, thin-crust dough ball for 3-5 days in cold fermentation, (something like a drier Pain l’ Ancienne method,) this cold entices the yeasties to take a little nap and thus allows the enzymes in the dough to break down the complex carbohydrates into simple sugars which evolve into a rich flavor with optimum caramelization. I take this further by rolling or sheeting the skin out and placing them on uncovered sheet pans in the walk in for another four to five days to dry off more hydration. We add plenty of residual flour to the skins and separate them with pizza liners. The whole process (which sounds crazy, unhealthy, and downright criminal) creates a leathery dough skin leading to a delicious and magical crunchy thin crust when baked. Some people call this curing, I just call it aging. As it ages the yeasties slowly die off and this overfermentation weakens the gluten scaffolding, leading to the perfect “anti-crust”, thin, crispy and flavorful.

Baking:

Let’s face it, there is no better crust to embrace an extremely hot oven than a thin crust. But you don’t have to do a 1100 F, coal-fired bake to get a crisp crust. I’ve found that a good 500-600 F makes a wonderful crust when your dough skin is properly un-hydrated, cured, aged, and docked. In a conveyor oven, the use of a pizza screen is a must because a pan captures too much steam between the crust and steel. 

Thin-Crust Pizza Dough

Here is a thin-crust pizza recipe that incorporates more oil and cornmeal into the mix with a mixable 50 percent hydration. It calls for a direct mix and no bulk fermentation and getting it into the refrigerator fast is very important to increase flavor.

Get the Thin-Crust Pizza Dough Recipe.

A History of the Thin Crust Pizza: On Thins and Needles

The sordid history of thin crusts goes back to 522 AD, when Darius the Great’s nervous soldiers were said to bake thin, flattened bread on their shields with cheese and dates the day before battle. The Berbers in Tunisia mixed wheat, flour, water, and oil to create a very thin pastry called Borek which was the beginning of unleavened Bric dough used by many modern chefs as a flatbread for items like famous French Brick a l’oeuf, and Daniel Boulud’s Wild Mushroom Tarte Flambee’. In 1925, New Haven style pizza originated by Frank Pepe and originally sold from a cart were called “Tomato pies.” Now this style is baked in coal-fired ovens and finishes with a wonderful crunchy char.

JOHN GUTEKANST owns Avalanche Pizza in Athens, Ohio.

The post Tackling the New Craze of Thin Crusted Pizzas appeared first on Pizza Today.

“I think 2025 will see pizza continuing to “democratize gourmet.” Pizzerias will increasingly embrace high-quality, unique ingredients while maintaining pizza’s accessible, communal nature. Chefs will be eager to innovate, yet they’ll keep the customer experience at the heart of their creations.
– Massimiliano Saieva, Chef, Instructor, and Award-winning Pizza Champion

Every year, there are predictions about new food trends and menus that are made by some experts and non-experts alike. The coming new year is no different, but the upcoming 2025 ballot box is filled with innovative new trends that seem to be happening at a faster pace. The wilderness of global cuisine is shrinking at breakneck speed and many chefs, content creators and food bloggers are taking on many new trends and sparking curiosity about flavors from around the world. Over 600 million food blogs publish two billion posts annually (Toast). That said, the experts are now everywhere thanks to social media. This “creator economy” produces food related material on TikTok, Instagram and YouTube and can reach millions of viewers. TikTok alone has over 600 million recipes (TikTok). The hashtag #food has over 250 million posts on Instagram (Menu Tiger). This has changed our own customers’ food desires. An amazing 55 percent of Gen Z reported trying more flavors in the past year and almost two-thirds of Boomers are interested in trying new foods, especially when included with some familiar items (Datassential). Let’s do a dive into the new food menu trends for 2025.

Food Swing

“I think that multicultural inspired toppings are on the rise in pizza. Salsa Macha is one that I think will trend. People are incorporating Latin American, Middle Eastern and Asian inspired flavors into their toppings. I am also noticing that customers are wanting cleaner, healthier pizza, without sacrificing flavor.”

– Justin Wadstein, 13-time World Pizza Champion, Owner of Sleight of Hand Pizzeria

Mediterranean and Middle Eastern techniques and flavors: I’ve encountered a growing call for baked breads that are close cousins to pizza like yeasted and baked thin-crusted pizzas called Manoushe. These are usually topped with spicy and spiced raw meats and vegetables with tomato and cured cheeses like Jibneh Arabieh, Akkawi, Feta, Kashkaval, Bulgari, and Shankleesh. My customers are hooked on Za’atar Manoushe and Barbari Manoushe, two flatbreads slathered with extra virgin and Za’atar, which is made with wild thyme, sumac, ground sesame and salt.

“The wood-fired craze is transferring into a nation of crazed crispy pizza fans topped with spicy and crispy toppings. The crispier the better!” 

– Derek Sanchez, Award-winning Pizza Champion and Entrepreneur, Mia Marco’s Pizza, Selma Texas

Upscale Spice: Spice and char are creeping into menus across the U.S. Years ago, you’d be hard-pressed to find overwhelming heat at restaurants, but now spicy-hot-hot is on! Chef Derek Sanchez sees pickled jalapenos, spicy salami/pepperoni, and roasted spicy peppers as a go-to for his customers.

Sweet Packed Cherry Tomatoes: Datterini tomatoes are gaining popularity and are now perfect toppings for pizzas and pastas. The name refers to the sweet, dense and oblong tomatoes meaning “little dates”. They are very versatile and have a naturally high sugar content. I use them to make our seasonal Focaccia di Recco baked with luscious and tangy dollops of homemade Prescinseua or Crescenza cheese.

Thin for the Win

“I see an increase in skinny pizzas. Thin and crispy seems to be the trend in upscale pizzerias and restaurants.”

– Domenico Crolla, Award-winning Chef, Restauranteur, Pizza Champion, and Judge, Ristorante Oro, Glascow Scotland

“You’ll continue to see tavern style pizzas on the rise as people are looking for thinner crust offerings but will see some variations on the crust like the frico of a New Jersey bar pie. You’re also starting to see a movement towards New Haven style again with a crispier charred edge.”

– Ed Stalewski, Owner of Eddie’s Pizza and Award-winning Pizza Competitor

Thin and skinny pizza crusts: This trend is felt all over the globe and is very strong. The desire for Chicago thin crust-type pizzas has even brought a new trend of “Curing” pizza crusts — uncovered, uncooked pizza skins resting in a walk-in refrigerator for up to five weeks until they are leather-like. This creates a crunchy thin crust with lots of character. Combined with the new trend of spicy toppings, the Stamford Hot Oil Pizza is right in the bullseye of these two new trends.

Alternate uses with meats: Ever since chef Massimo Bottura shocked the Italian fine dining scene with his Mortadella mousse, other chefs have followed making use of all sorts of meats. Chef Francesco Capuzzo Dolcetto, Executive Chef of Marzapane in Rome makes a “Beef Butter” rendered from kidneys and serves it with Capellino pasta and licorice. I’ve made use of the lowly, unused Prosciutto di Parma shank by reducing it with a boiling mirepoix (carrot, onion, celery) reduced further into a thick finishing sauce for pizzas or clarified with egg whites for a delicious consommé.

Innovative Oils: Some olive oil companies are creating amazing, flavored olive oils called Agrumato. This is done by laboriously crushing the freshly picked olives with the other ingredients and makes for a more freshly spiced and complex oil perfect for use on pizza finishes, sauces, vinegarettes and marinades. I love to make a vegan “Air Pizza” with a Chili Agrumato as a laminating fat in between sheets of dough like butter is used in croissants. This effect after baking creates the airiest cornicione my customers have ever seen.

Fresh and Edible Finishers: Gone are the lonely sprigs of baby arugula that was so big in the 1990’s. The new finishing solutions for pizza makers contain both flavor and colorful pizzazz. Chef Ed Stalewski, owner of Eddie’s Pizza says, “I continue to see the beautification of pizza with either edible flowers or artistically arranged toppings.” From Calabrian chilies, chive flowers, pine buds, and colorful daikon strips, to maple-coated pecans, crushed pignoli, and crunchy tomato skins, more pizza makers are getting that fabulous “wow” from their customers’ first glance all the way to that tasty finish.

John Gutekanst owns Avalanche Pizza in Athens, Ohio.

Check out the latest pizza trends, hot pizza styles, top pizza toppings, pizzeria labor market, restaurant marketing and pizza industry insights in our 2025 Pizza Industry Trends Report.

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When you knead to rise above over-proofed dough.

t has happened to all of us. You’re working in your busy pizzeria, the line in the lobby snakes to the door, all your ovens are full, increasing the internal temperature of your kitchen to 103 degrees. The dough that you brought out an hour ago has been proofing in the boxes for way too long and you promise yourself to get right to it, but that hour turns into 90 minutes in the frenzy.

Once the rush is over, you cautiously look in the dough box and you see dough balls that are flat, wrinkled and spent. You know there are two avenues to take; either throw the dough away or correct this over-proofed dough. You must first find out how old the dough is because this over proofed dough you’re looking at could be on its last rise. Or you could have a dough ball that has just become proofed too much and has a second rise in it.

Role of Yeast in Overproofed Dough: Feeding Frenzy

We all make a living using dough recipes that rely upon time and temperature. Time affords a period for these small natural and human-made yeast enzymes and bacteria to interact with natural sugars to create a rise in our dough. This is also regulated by the temperature at which this dough is subjected. When everything in your dough schedule goes swimmingly, you can pat yourself on the back, stand back and gaze upon the finished pizza product with pride. When you over-proof your dough, there is that sinking feeling that all that time making, resting, balling, storing and proofing your dough is wasted. There are certain ways you can tell how far along your proofing has gotten.

One way is to use your finger. Note: these examples are for dough that is not cold. Refrigerated dough may act differently.

• If the dough ball bounces back right away when pressed with your finger, it is not ready for prime time and needs to proof longer.
• If the ball is poked and the dent answers back in a slow, even fashion, it is ready to bake.
• If the dough ball has puffed up tremendously and your finger dent stays in the dough with no bounce back, the dough is borderline over-proofed.
• If the dough looks completely deflated like a wrinkly beach ball and deflates when poked with your finger, it is over-proofed.
  

Dough Management: Dough Nuts

As a pizza manager, your dough schedule is calculated to use the limitations of your refrigeration space, oven type and knowledge of your dough personnel. Your physical plant reflects and intermingles with the way you want your pizzas to look, taste and feel like. Dough is the platform that holds and melds with all the other flavors on your proprietary pizza and therefore is the spine of your operation. To gain more control over the way your dough is mixed and aged, you can set up a plan to make sure everyone in your pizzeria is on board. This can be a dough schedule printed and attached to a clipboard near the mixer and proofing tables. It should contain times, temperatures, mixing speeds, weights and proofing times for each batch. In a perfect world, this detailed dough production works well, but some of us with high volume pizzerias opt for a simpler dough production with small date and time stickers on the dough. These also have the names spelt, thin crust, regular, Detroit, Roman, sourdough, etc. on them. This also frees the dough people to keep a flow of dough rolling and if they have questions, they can match the type of dough to signs and recipes kept near the dough station.

What to do with an overproofed pizza dough? The Proof is in the Pudding

When you are staring at an over-proofed dough ball, you must not despair because there is a way to rehabilitate an over-proofed dough ball besides making mediocre focaccia or breadsticks out of it.

This is a secret that many great pizzaioli and bakers hold tight to their chests, ‘The Re-knead.’  It is used extensively in the airy, Roman style Pizza in Teglia, as well as high-hydration sourdough bakers. The re-knead is a dough resurrection that stretches already mixed and relaxed dough. This procedure strengthens the gluten matrix and introduces new feeding opportunities to the yeast. Most re-kneads are part of a calculated dough schedule which takes highly hydrated, cold fermented dough, brings it to room temperature for a short period of time, and re-forms a new, stronger dough ball. This technique can also be used for dough that has become over-proofed. It gives you a chance to use that secondary rise that a rehabbed gluten matrix and new yeast activity affords you.

To begin the re-knead, make sure there is no oil or hard crust on your dough ball. Take the over proofed dough ball by two opposing horizontal edges with the bottom of the dough ball toward you. Pull your hands away from one another stretching the dough until taut. Then close the dough like a book. Turn the dough ball 90 degrees and use this stretch/fold method again. Now start tucking the dough under the dough ball with your fingers and tighten the dough ball using a table if necessary. This dough ball can be sent back to the refrigerator to relax for later use or covered at room temperature to use in 20 to 30 minutes.

John Gutekanst owns Avalanche Pizza in Athens, Ohio.

>> Explore answers to more common pizza dough questions in Troubleshooting your Pizza Dough: What’s wrong with my pizza dough? <<

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“We can form a single united body, while the enemy must spit up into fractions. Hence there will be a whole pitted against the separate parts of the whole, which means we shall be many to the enemy’s few.”  Sun Tzu, The Art of War, 5th Century B.C.

Making pizza is art. Each pizza is a song that starts with techniques to turn time, temperature, water, bacteria and grain into gasses, which, in turn, creates a textural wonder that is enjoyed with the allegro of toppings that play fast, quick and bright across the palate. The sensory memory that sets this pizza apart is a song that people seek out again and again, be it folded in your hand, on a piece of foil, cardboard box or porcelain plate. Pizza transforms inspiration, imagination and insight into a symphony of human creativity. Combining toppings is essential to building these perfect tastes, but to create these masterpieces, you just need to know how.

Usually, when someone asks me about pizza toppings, my pizza mind automatically goes to my makeline menu mix. I see that shiny monster and lift the lids to see the same-old 12 toppings. If you’re like me, you can’t help it — these are the backbone of my pizzeria, the most favorite pizza toppings that my customers order over and over. Our customers’ memories are all about that great experience they had before with these toppings, but these flavor memories can also be replicated in the present tense using creative and well-thought-out combinations. We all must agree that customers are becoming increasingly adventurous with their pizzas. This means that we need to be ahead of the culinary curve and know how to pair toppings in new and innovative ways.

Taste Treatment Plant

There are several ways to think about topping combinations that make for terrific pizzas. One is the flavor history of cooking and pizza, followed by the quality of toppings on hand, and lastly how these toppings interact with others and the platform that they are presented on. Here are a few questions to ask yourself before engineering a new pizza.

Taste: Is it Sweet, Salty, Bitter, Acidy/Sour or Umami/Savory?

Texture: Is it Dry, Crunchy, Soft, Gooey, Wet or Chewy?

Aroma: Is it Sweet, Smokey, Vegetal, Pungent or Wheaty?

Color: Does it have eye appeal?

Pairing: Is there a feeling of completeness? Do all the topping players embrace each other by complimenting or balancing each other?

When thinking about pairing toppings on pizza, think about the last time you’ve experienced a new combination. That taste starts with color stimulating your eye in an introduction to the whole experience followed by aroma, which consists of 80-90 percent of the flavor experience. The textural crunch of a brilliant cornicione, or crust, releases the salty wheatiness that stimulates your appetite, while the sweet umami of the cheese satisfies your need for pleasure. Perhaps the sourness, acidity or spiciness of an ancillary topping adds sparkle and brightness to the finish. You marvel as every bite combines the five elements in a symphony of taste.

Pizza Topping Pairing Blender

Many pizza makers swear by adding only 2-3 toppings to a pizza. But depending upon whether you’re adding flavor vs. enhancing flavor, this may not be enough to bring the flavors to the pinnacle of taste. Your choice of heightening flavors can take two avenues: Adding flavor or enhancing flavor.

Here are a few examples of adding flavor to a three-topping pizza to make it shine:

• Gorgonzola + Pear + Walnut (add spinach)
• Mozzarella + Basil + Tomato (add Prosciutto di Parma)
• Gruyere + Ham + Hazelnuts (add fig jam)

Here is an example of enhancing flavor to a three-topping pizza to make it shine:

• Manchego + Quince Paste + Almonds (enhance by roasting almonds)
• Caciocavallo + Ham + Red Peppers (enhance by pickling the red peppers)
• Provolone + Tomato sauce + Roasted Red Onion (Enhance by roasting onions with Calabrian chilies)

Extra Texture

The creation of pizza is in a unique position to project flavors because it has a very flavorful platform to consider while planning a flavor path. Much like pasta, you need to consider not only the texture, flavor and overall mouthfeel of the pizza but the way it is cooked. Is it caramelized, pillowy and charred, or crispy, thin and golden?

These examples provide just a peek into how pizzas may be enhanced by pizza toppings. There are many historical topping variations to look for that have been used in the past that work well on the pizza platform. They are:

• Gorgonzola, Fig Jam, Walnuts
• Artichoke, Roasted Leek, Parmigiano, Cream
• Mozzarella, Ricotta, Mortadella, Pistachio
• Anchovy, Garlic, Romano, Parsley
• Zucchini, Egg, Parmigiano
• Clam, Chili, Parsley, Romano
• Eggplant, Roasted Red Pepper, Onion
• Tomato, Garlic, Oregano
• Shrimp, Andouille Sausage, Red Onions
• Peaches, Bresaola, Burrata, Pecan
• Steak, Blue Cheese, Watercress
• Fennel, Sausage, Radicchio, Chili flakes

Pork Belly Pizza with Roasted Leeks, Pickled Lemon and Hazelnut

This pizza is amazing because of the wonderful pairing of leeks and pork which transforms like a mushroom cloud of flavor. The Gruyere adds a sour note to the melting mozzarella and the sweet lemon hit is followed by the textural crunch of the hazelnuts.

Get the Pork Belly Pizza with Roasted Leeks, Pickled Lemon and Hazelnut recipe.

John Gutekanst owns Avalanche Pizza in Athens, Ohio.

The post Topping combinations that turn pizza into a winning symphony of flavor appeared first on Pizza Today.

Onions. Yes, you know, those giant mesh bags that sit in your walk-in like a second-string quarterback?  With a little imagination, it could be time to play this transformative vegetable to make pizzas and pastas more exciting. For centuries, these little sulfurous flavor bombs have been manipulated to transfer flavor into sauces and paired with other ingredients to turn foods from boring to exciting. Their texture can range from liquid to crunchy and best of all, onions are one of the best value-for-taste products in your pizzeria.

The Big Sphinx Stink

Onions are a genus of flowering plants in the allium family. The Egyptian peasants would buy them from small market stalls, sliced and serve with ale and a common flatbread named ta before returning to work on the pyramids. It is thought that Alexander the Great found the onion in Egypt then brought it to Greece. Ironically, we see a trend as the dark-age peasants in the time of the Goths, Visigoths, Vandals and Franks ate onions with porridge or bread, ale, cabbage and sometimes a piece of salt pork. 

The Allium Family

The Allium family and the taste of each type of bulb and scape is distinguished by pungency and concentration of the sulfur compounds. Here is a list of alliums minus the garlic and leek.

White Onion: This stronger, spicier and more pungent onion than the yellow onions. This onion has a more pronounced onion flavor but falls apart when cooked. The crisp texture is perfect for onion rings.

Red Onion: Sometimes referred to as the salad onion because of its sweetness and less punchy spice when raw. You can cook with this onion and the color fades to pink when heated. This onion caramelizes easily after roasting or atop a pizza which mellows the flavor. 

Yellow Onion: Sometimes referred as the brown onion. This is the workhorse of many kitchens because it is cheaper and plentiful. The flavor is strong but not overpowering and caramelize easily and the flesh holds up well when cooking. 

Sweet Onions: The mildest of all are usually odd shaped and thus hard to cut in a kitchen setting especially with new chefs. This may be called Vidalia Georgia, Texas or Walla Walla and are great for raw preparations. When heating, they lose that oniony flavor fastest so keep that in mind.

Shallot: This tastes like a cross between a yellow and red onion and is a favorite of chefs because the texture doesn’t break down easily. In a fine dining environment, the small flesh enables chefs to fabricate this into fine dice in sauces and entrees. These can be pickled very easily in small rings for a great pickled garnish.

Others: There are many other varieties of allium like the wild ramp, spring onion, leek, chive, Spanish calcot, pearl, grey shallot, wild lampascioni, and ramsons.

Onions can be paired with an enormous number of foods. Because they act as a building block for all things culinary like the flavor base “Holy Trinity” or Mirepoix using celery, onion, and carrot. Here are some other pairings that really bring out the flavor of the onion: bacon, liver, bay, butter, orange, parsley, thyme, brandy, vinegar, citrus, toasted nuts, apple, cocoa, honey, chili peppers, cream, milk, meats, mushrooms, sugar, stocks, salt sage, rosemary, pepper, nutmeg, oil, anchovies, apples, basil, wheat, carrot, cheddar, comte cheese, goat, fromage blanc, Gruyere, Parmigiano, Swiss, Emmental, potatoes, tomato, saffron, curry, peas, oregano, bitter greens, mangoes, cucumbers, cilantro, nutmeg, mint and blue cheese.

Onions in the pizzeria

To propel onions to the top of your best-selling pizza, you’ll need a plan, a few co-starring ingredients, and your finger on the pulse of popular flavors. Here are some ideas that I have had success with:

• Curried onions with raisons. Eight cups sliced red onions in a pan with a quarter cup of canola oil and a one or two cups curry powder and one cup of water. Toss well with gloves and place into an oven to cook. As soon as cooked, toss two handfuls of raisons in the hot mix to re-hydrate. You may add this directly on a pizza, grind up and mix with ricotta, add to a hydrated batch of dough for curry bread or curry pizza dough.
• Chipotle Onions. Same recipe as above but instead of curry, add one small can of chipotle in adobo sauce to the onions and squash with hands and mix well. Roast the same way and add blueberries for a great sauce. This can also be ground up and made into a righteous barbeque sauce or sauced on a pizza with pork and provolone or kneaded into a bread.
• Pickled Shallot Rings. Cut large shallots into rings, place into clean and sanitized jars or lexans with tight lids. Combine and heat up 3 cups vinegar, 1 cup water, ½ cup sugar, 2 tablespoons salt, 1 cinnamon stick, 1 bay leaf, 5 whole cloves, 5 juniper berries and 7 whole peppercorns. When boiling, add the shallots and turn heat off. Pour the heated liquid into the jars and let cool. When cool close the lid and refrigerate.
• Onion Fettucine Alfredo. Cut the ends off two white onions and peel the outside skin. Turn the onion on end and make a vertical cut halfway down the onion. Using your slicer or sharp knife to cut ¼ inch cuts horizontally across the onion to form “fettuccine” like strips. Choose the longest strips and steam with lid on for 10 to 12 minutes until just translucent. Cool the onion then heat up your favorite cream sauce and add the onion fettuccine, Parmigiano and sauté’ for only 30 seconds. This is great with bacon or strips of crispy Prosciutto di Parma and, it’s gluten free.

Onion and Sausage Petal Pizza

This small pizza powerhouse packs a wonderful combination of onions, cream, spinach and sausage. This 10-inch pizza exhibits both the stronger raw onions baked on the pizza and the delicious sausage-ricotta stuffed onion petals.  

Get the Onion and Sausage Petal Pizza recipe.

JOHN GUTEKANST  owns Avalanche Pizza in Athens, Ohio.

The post New Ideas for Onions in Your Pizzeria appeared first on Pizza Today.